Home Care Sheet & Shopping List

Enclosure: 40 Gallon Tank with locking lid

o Pro Tip: We recommend double front doors for easy access and cleaning. Also, check Facebook Marketplace for cheap used options.

o Example: 40g ExoTerra on Amazon

If your tank has a screen lid, consider covering the screen with a towel, aluminum foil, or more permanent PVC top, such as this one from Focus Cube Habitats (note: only compatible with ExoTerra brand): https://focuscubedhabitats.com/

Starter kits can often be cheaper than just buying a tank. However, most of the accessories in commerical starter kits are not well suited for Ball Pythons and will need to be replaced.

Smaller tanks (e.g., 20 gal) may be used for baby Ball Pythons, but they will quickly outgrow them (within 1-2 years).

Heat Mat & Thermostat

Heat mat MUST be used with thermostat to avoid burning/injuring the Ball Python!

o Example: Thermostat and Heat Mat Set

Ball Pythons do not ‘bask’ like other reptiles and are not well suited for heat lamps. They prefer belly heat from a ‘heat mat’ placed under the tank. Also, Heat Rocks placed directly in the tank get too hot and can burn the Ball Python - so don’t use those either.

Heat mat goes under the tank, with the thermometer probe directly between the heat mat and glass for safety. If using aluminum tape to secure the probe, only tape the wires, and do not place the tape directly on the metal probe as it could cause interference with the signals. The thermometer will need to be set higher than the desired temperature of the ‘warm side’ of the cage (88-92°F). The Warm Side should not exceed 95°F for the animal’s safety, and should be checked with a Temperature Gun / Infrared Thermometer (inside the tank, on the floor, without substrate) several times during the first few days after initial set-up to ensure the heat mat/thermometer is correctly regulating the area.

Water Bowl

Almost anything can be used as a Water Bowl. Link to example here: Bowl

Always have water available. Clean and replace water every 3 days or twice per week. In a pinch, a snake can go up to 1 week without having the water replaced (e.g., if leaving for vacation), but it is not recommended on a regular basis.

Pro Tip: Place a pre-1982 penny in the water dish. Pennies made prior to 1982 are made from real copper and have antimicrobial properties that keep water slightly cleaner. Clean penny with vinegar prior to use, to ensure it’s not contaminated.

Two (2) Hides

Almost anything can be used as a hide. I recommend old plastic bowls or tupperware containers the snake can barely fit in. If a hide is too large, some wadded up newspaper inside can help the snake feel secure. Example: Hide

Always provide a ‘warm hide’ and a ‘cold hide’ so the Ball Python has a place to comfortably rest while self-regulating their body heat. Do this by placing one hide over the heat mat section of the tank, and another hide somewhere else.

Ball Pythons strongly prefer small tight spaces, so the hide will need to be replaced and grow with the Ball Python.

Do not be alarmed if your snake spends most of the day in his hide. They are nocturnal and are happily resting during the day.

Substrate

Coconut husk is by far the best substrate for ball pythons. It holds moisture well, removes smell, and is safe if the snake swallows some while feeding. Example: ReptiChip

If buying a compressed block, it can be difficult to separate. Dunking the block in a sink full of water for 30 seconds will cause the block to expand and loosen. However, for storage reasons, it may be preferable to simply pull off a small amount each time the substrate is needed, even though this can be more difficult due to the compact fibers.

Clean substrate by spot-checking twice per weak (when refilling water) and removing any poop. Every 4-6 weeks, or as the snake sheds, replace the substrate. Old substrate makes great mulch for gardens.

Temperature / Humidity Monitor

Place the Temp/Humidity monitor on the cold side of the cage to monitor ambient temperature. Ideal is 78-80°F for the snake as they are native to warm areas of Africa. If the temperature is colder, you may find that the snake will spend more time in its warm hide. It is generally not recommended for a snake’s ambient temperature to be below 75°F, and it may be considered unsafe for a Ball Python to live in an environment under 70°F. o Example: Monitor

Ball Pythons require humidity at ~60-70% in order to have healthy sheds. Snakes should shed like taking off a sock, in one piece. If a snake is shedding in flakes, the humidity is too low, and a 20 minute bath in lukewarm (90°F) water may be required to help the snake complete its shed. To avoid shedding issues, add water to the coconut husk when humidity falls below 50-55%, especially if the snake is in shed (dull skin color or foggy eyes).

Note: Too much humidity can be dangerous to the Ball Python. Prolonged periods in humidity over 80% can cause a Respiratory Infection (RI). If a snake appears to be opening its mouth excessively, has drool of any amount, or is making a popping sound with its mouth, it may have an RI, and you should consult your vet.

Also, sitting in water for prolonged periods can cause scale rot, so the area in the snake hides should remain relatively dry.

Frozen Rats

o It is highly recommended to feed frozen/thawed rats to your snake whenever possible. Live rats can cause injury to the snake, especially if the rat is too large or left unattended. Ball Pythons are notoriously picky eaters and often skip a meal. Leaving a rat unattended with a snake is unsafe for the snake and often results in permanent injuries to the reptile.

o A baby Ball Python may need to eat live mouse hoppers in the early months as it develops a feeding response. However, you should transition them to F/T rats as soon as they are willing. Start by offering F/T mice about once per month. When they are reliable taking F/T mice, introduce F/T rats. Alternatively, you may offer live rat fuzzies to help with them recognize rats as food prior to introducing the F/T rats.

o Feed the snake at night, when the snake is active for better feeding responses.

o Example: https://www.rodentpro.com/categories/frozen-foods/rats

Mice and other small animals are not recommended for long periods of time, because rats have the best ratio of nutrients for the snake’s needs. However, snakes that are offered mice or other rodents do often prefer them, and may refuse to return to eating rats. This can become expensive and cumbersome, as it takes many more mice to feed a full grown Ball Python due to their size.

When thawing rats, place in hot tap water (130-140°F) until thawed all the way through. This can take 20-30 minutes for a small rat, and may require replacing the tap water at least once to get the temperature correct as the water cools. Before feeding the snake, ensure the rat is warmer than body temperature, and dry remaining water with a paper towel to prevent rapid cooling from the water evaporating. If the rat feels at all cold to the touch, then the snake will not sense the rat and may refuse to eat. If the rat is consumed without being completely thawed (i.e., parts are still frozen), it could injure or kill the cold-blooded snake.

It is highly recommended by most modern Snake Keepers to feed the snake in their cage. This is perfectly safe if using coconut husk substrate, and despite older philosophies, there is no evidence to support that moving a snake to a separate tub for feeding will reduce the risk of accidental feeding response bites.

Do not handle the snake for at least 24 hours after feeding, or 48-72 hours for an especially large meal.

As a general rule, choose rats that are roughly the same width as the thickest part of the snake. Below is a general feeding guide.

Do not be alarmed if a snake skips a meal, or even several meals. Discard the rat and do not try to refreeze it. If a snake has not eaten in several months and appears to be too thin (pyramid shaped) or lethargic, consult a vet. However, if the snake is large, and does not appear to be losing weight, a snake may go up to 3 months or more without eating, and be perfectly healthy. This is especially common during breeding season (fall to spring) or when the snake hits 1000 grams (called the 1000 gram wall).

(Optional) Scale

We Recommended to check the snake’s weight monthly. Tracking weight gain (or loss) will let you know if the snake is progressing regularly, what size meal to feed, help determine if the snake is losing too much weight when it has been skipping meals, and help determine if the snake is large enough to breed (800g+ for males, 1500g+ for females).

o Example: https://www.amazon.com/Vivarium-Electronics-DS-6000-Reptile-Basics/dp/B016YJ2HHY

(Optional) Snake Hook

o Ball Pythons rarely bite. However, if a snake has not been handled for several months, and/or the snake needs to be removed from its enclosure while in ‘feeding mode’, a snake hook is an excellent tool.

o To get a Ball Python out of ‘feeding mode’, typically, you only need to gently touch the snake on the head with the hook, and it will retreat into a ball, and can be picked up from behind.

o Small cheap, but may break easy – good only for babies: https://www.amazon.com/REPTI-ZOO-Collapsible-Stainless-Retractable/dp/B07M8BDVK6/

o Good quality/large example – good for adults: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NC1Z3RB/

Alternatively, if the snake is very scared or defensive, removing the snake with the hook may be required to avoid a defensive bite. Once the snake is removed from its enclosure and is perched on the hook, the snake can generally be handled without worry of a bite.

If you are bitten by a snake, the best course of action is to wait until the snake lets go, return the snake to its cage, and then thoroughly flush the bite marks with water and iodine to remove any bacteria (this is where I also must say to consult your doctor since I am not a doctor and cannot give medical advice).